This is the door switch.  In it there are actually two separate sets of switch contacts.  One for the dome light and one for the anti-theft system.  The one furthest back from the plunger with the red wire is for the alarm.  The other contact with the black wire and red stripe if for the dome light.  Both share a common black ground wire.  The type of switch contacts are called "Self scrubbing".  This means that the contact surfaces scrape or "scrub" themselves clean each time they close preventing corrosion buildup.  This also means they do gradually wear out.  A well designed switch is a balancing act between excess wear and corrosion failure.  However, with a hole in the boot, as in the above image, corrosion can build rapidly causing the dome light or the alarm to not activate.

The engine hood switch works much the same.  When the hood is opened the switch closes and the alarm sounds.  Replacing the hood during body work or making any adjustments to the fit of the hood and affect this switch (click image at left).  After I installed my “Cold Air Induction” set up my alarm went off occasionally in high winds.  The stiff weather stripping I inserted changed the dimensional relationship between the hood and switch.  High winds lifted the hood enough to open the switch.  Repositioning the switch up about an 1/8 inch solved the problem.  This switch can also fail if esposed to the elements.  This switch must be “open” to arm the system. 

The “Hatch Open” switch is a little more sophisticated.  Unlike the other switches this one is incorporated directly into the latch assembly (click image at left).  Being in what is essentially the interior of the car this switch is less likely to fail due to corrosion.  The only failure of this switch I have seen to date is part of the latch mechanism sticking and holding the switch closed.  This switch must be “open” to arm the system.

More info regarding the security system and the door key lock switches coming soon.
 

You will need to purchase 2 things.  3/8” Elastic banding (about $1.79) and a “Sail Maker's Awl” (under $10).  Both can be purchased at  a fabric and sewing shop (kind of a weird feeling being the only guy walking around in those places).  A Sail Maker's Awl is a heavy duty stitching device for making and repairing canvas items and things made of other heavy fabrics.  I have had one for probably 25 years and manage to use it for something one or twice every year.  Very handy. 
 

Ok.  Cut a piece of elastic to about 10 inches or so.  Spread the nap (fuzzy stuff) like you would part your hair (if you have any) and start one stitch in the pouch flap directly above the slot for the elastic (Click image at left).  If you part the nap in the right place, it should leave a clean path between like rows of corn.  This will allow the stitches to lie flat and the nap will return to normal concealing the stitches.  Does any of this make sense? 
 

Double under about a half inch of elastic.  When you have a stitch through the flap and the elastic, pull 6 inches of thread through to the other side.  pull the needle out, move down a millimeter and start another stitch.  When you pull the needle back, form a loop and pass the free end through.  Pull the loop tight and start another stitch and so on and so on.  When the width of the elastic is stitched cut off the last loop and tie the two loose ands with several square knots. 
 

Pull the elastic through the slot in the panel.  On the other side, I recommend that you fasten the elastic differently.  Originally the elastic was fastened with a staple in the press board backing.  I'm not too fond of this technique.  I found that it can be easily attached to the mounting bracket for the door reflector/lamp (Click image at left).  Bend up one corner of the bracket (Click image at left).  Lay the elastic flat on the panel and stretch it about one inch past the bracket.  Don't pull too much.  You want the pouch to snap back smartly when pulled but still have 4 inches or so of free movement.  Bend the bracket back down on the elastic and tie the elastic in a square knot. 

Looks nice, huh?  Actually, if its done right there should be nothing to look at.  The nap should hide the stitches completely and the pouch will snug up against the door panel tightly.  I wasn't comfortable with using white elastic but I couldn't find black or any other color.  It actually doesn't look bad at all.  If you really don't like white you can dye it with fabric dye like you would a shirt or something.  DON'T use spray paint or a felt pen as the solvents in them can attack the rubber elastic bands and cause them to sag again.  Kinda defeats the purpose.

Remove the two mounting screws securing the fan to the frame.  Also remove the two rubber bushings on each side of the fan assembly.  Don't loose the brass insert inside them.  In four corners there are plastic barbs or locking tabs that hold the black plastic cover in place.  Carefully push all four in while gently prying the cover off (Click image at left).  Also be careful not to tear up the foam in the outside of the cover.  Mine was dry rotted and flaked off.  Every thing still worked fine afterward so don't panic if it does disintegrate. 
 

Look carefully at the fan rotor inside.  When you spin it with your finger you can see that it is on a shaft.  Put a small drop of 3-in-1 oil or some other light oil on the shaft and let it run down into the rotor (Click image at left).  Snap the cover back on and insert the bushings in the side.  Getting the fan assembly back into the headliner will take a little positioning and patience.  I don't know why but it comes out really easy yet is a bit of a challenge getting it back in.  I can't describe it.  You'll just have to figure it out.  I did have to get a pinkie finger in on the headliner and pull it down a 1/4 of a inch to get the back end of the fan in.  Once you have the fan screwed in everything else snaps back into place.

Pull out the ash tray and remove the 2 hidden mounting screws on the bottom and the 2 screws under the top edge of the plastic bezel (trim, frame) whatever you want to call it (Click image above, left).  Remove the 4 screws that hold the instrument bay in the dash and carefully pull the bay out towards you (Click image at left).
 
 

Unplug the 3 connectors across the back of the climate control and remove the 5 screws on either side (Click image at left).  Now you can pull the unit out and place it on a bench for further disassembly.
 
 
 

Remove the 6 screws securing the cover as shown at left.
 
 
 
 

And there’s the little buggers (part numbers shown).
 
 
 
 

More work to do here, stay tooned
 

Once the cement has been allowed to set press the leather back in place.  Roll it with a pen or pop bottle to thoroughly bond the two surfaces together.  This should be about as close to a permanent fix as you can get.  It isn't the prettiest fix in the world but, considering the alternatives, it's not bad.  This will also help prevent further deterioration of the seam.

Remove the single screw holding the door latch handle trim and remove the trim.  Pull the door latch handle out first to remove the trim. 
 
 
 

Insert a screw driver or putty knife under the panel and slide it up or down until you find one of the fasteners.  Pry the panel out.  The fastener should release with a “pop”.  Do this with the remaining six or seven fasteners.  Tilt the panel out  from the bottom and lift up to unhook the top of the panel from the door frame.  Caution: There are cables connected to the inside of the panel that need to be disconnected.